Nelson’s Buffeteria Hits Pay Dirt … Again

Walter Nef

Imagine Tulsa at the end of the “Roaring Twenties.” Oil, which had been discovered in 1902, was what it was all about, along with that particular industry’s usual by-products of land men, lease holders, swampers, roughnecks, sharpies, frauds, floozies, lawmen and sweet jazz music. It was a time of murder, mayhem and money that would keep Tulsa healthy during the depression and beyond. This was and is the “Oil Capital of the World.”

In 1929, as the community was seeking its own destiny, a restaurant opened in downtown Tulsa that would approach legendary status of its own – Nelson’s Buffeteria. And, after five years in hiding, it has returned to satisfy the hunger of its diners, from all over the state. The new Nelson’s Ranch House, located at 1547 E. 3^rd Street, near downtown Tulsa, is a true example of “destination dining.”

Managed by a third generation Nelson – Nelson Barry Rogers III (Barry) – along with his mother Suzanne, the new location leaves it all on the table, so to speak, by reminding returning hordes of customers just what they had been missing these past five years.

According to Barry, his grandfather, the original Nelson, was a true character.

“There is a lot of folklore surrounding my grandfather, who had quite a colorful personality. He was tough, a snappy dresser, and just what you would expect if you were watching some old movie with Humphrey Bogart and a gang of gangsters,” he said. “I know Granddad had slot machines and gambling, which helped fund his restaurant enterprise. Downtown Tulsa was obviously booming in those days with all the oil money, as old footage depicts. It must have been an exciting time.”

Barry considers himself fortunate to have known his grandfather, who died at the age of 76 when Barry was in the eighth grade.

“He was such a character – black horn-rimmed glasses, silk shirts, shiny dress shoes, Cadillacs – he was so ‘Mafia’ and didn’t mean to be,” he said. “I think he was the coolest – that’s all I’ve ever heard from the people who knew him. It’s said that Granddad knew everyone by name and also what they ate. If he didn’t know your name, he had a nickname for you.”

The first major change in almost 50 years came at the passing of Nelson. Nelson II, a former banker, took over the eatery, which by then had moved to 5^th and Boston.

“My father took over Nelson’s in 1976, just a few months before Granddad passed away,” Barry said. “It was more fate than planning. Dad had a 20-year career in banking in Kansas, with no intention of running the restaurant. However, when the owners of the bank had a disagreement, he decided to take over Nelson’s until he found another banking position. When Granddad passed away, dad never returned to his banking career.”

While trained as a banker, Nelson II understood quickly what it would take to run a popular restaurant.

“My dad, to this day, has never fried a single egg, or even made toast,” Barry said. “He was, however, a great front man, as gregarious and social as they come. I’m proud to say that everyone likes my dad. He is a great “people” person, and Nelson’s was his venue for many years.”

Nelson’s most certainly would have remained at the 5^th and Boston location; however, a dramatic layoff of downtown Tulsa employees and ineluctable business trends finally got the better of the restaurant and, in 2004, the doors were closed … presumably forever.

However, there were those who just couldn’t let go. Suzanne put all the equipment and fixtures into storage, while Nelson II kept the neon sign and spurned all offers from potential franchisers. Together with their son, the three secretly dreamed of a comeback.

“I was 40 years old when Nelson’s closed in 2004; I had never saved any money, had no real career, and I was still single. I worked odd jobs for the next five years, saving money, dreaming of re-opening the restaurant,” said Barry.

And, just like the phoenix rising from the ashes, the new Nelson’s came into being with the recipes, the serving line and, miraculously, many of the same personnel back to satisfy even the hungriest patrons. But if you think the menu doesn’t have the same relevance as it did all those years ago, it’s time to think again.

“As everyone knows, Nelson’s is famous for its Chicken Fried Steak. This is the legacy of Eliza Smith, ‘Smitty’ to regulars, who was Nelson’s chef during those glory years,” said Barry. “When Granddad teamed up with Smitty, the food was locked in at Nelson’s. Smitty was truly a genius, and all of Nelson’s recipes are from his tenure. Pan-fried Steak, Meatloaf, Baked Chicken & Dressing, Mac-n-Cheese … I could go on and on. Smitty was “back of the house” while Granddad was the front. That’s how Nelson’s “Soul Kitchen” came into being. Smitty knew how to combine flavors and side dishes simply … true comfort foods. The recipes haven’t changed in 75 years.”

Almost like the return of a classic television series, this new version keeps its cast of characters intact.

“It was very important to us that we round up the old gang just like before,” Barry said. “Eddie Bagsby, one of only three chefs in Nelson’s history and who was chef when the restaurant was last in operation, is back with us now, as is Stacey Moore, who mainly does salads, and Charles Littlejohn, who cooks breakfast.”

Of special interest to Nelson’s customers will be that Louise Stoner, known to all former patrons as “Miss Nelson’s,” has returned to the fold on Thursdays and Fridays.

“I started with Nelson’s on February 17, 1960,” she said. “I’ve made it my business over time to learn every customer’s name, all about their families, and what their favorite foods are. I can’t imagine being anywhere else.”

Also, like a favorite series, catch phrases are important.

“We still yell ‘Hello, Chicken Fry’ when we’re out on the line,” Barry said.

Suzanne Rogers, however, had to be persuaded to re-boot the franchise.

“We knew for Nelson’s to return we had to have exactly the right set of circumstances.  We looked and looked for a building and, even when I saw this new facility, I wasn’t convinced it was right for us,” she said. “However, once I got inside and saw the layout, I knew we were back in business.”

Another debate that ensued while planning Nelson’s comeback was the decision whether or not to serve on a line.

“When all was said and done, we decided that the line was very important to the Nelson’s legacy,” Suzanne said, and adds that many of the old Nelson’s relics remain on the premises.

“We have our first cash register here, along with many historic photos,” she said.

Nelson’s customer base is not limited to Tulsa. According to Suzanne, once word spread that the restaurant had re-opened, customers traveled from far and wide to line up for their favorite indulgence.

“It has seemed, over the years, that people consider us worth the trip,” she said.

Once, during Nelson’s dormancy, Suzanne encountered a situation that reminded her of the magic surrounding her restaurant.

“I was in a hardware store buying materials when I ran into a young man who recognized me from Nelson’s,” she said. “All he said to me, looking me straight in the eye, was, ‘I’m hungry, I’m hungry.’ Pretty soon, he had a crowd gathered around him, chanting over and over, ‘I’m hungry, I’m hungry.’ This led me to believe that, in this world of fast food and chain restaurants, there were still diners craving what Nelson’s had to offer.”

Nelson’s Ranch House is open 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and dinner on Fridays only from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.